The first step is to cut a hole through each end of the ice-chest. We used a 4" bi-metal hole saw drill attachment to cut the holes through the center of each end. These unique saw blades (Vermont American Tool Company) can be found at most hardware stores, and simply fit into a drill to cut perfectly round holes, usually used for installing dead bolt locks and door knobs. The 4 inch size is a bit expensive at around $25.00, so an alternative would be to use a compass to the mark the circle for the hole and then use a jig-saw to cut it out.

You will need to cut three lengths of the 3" ABS pipe, two at 3 inches long and the third one about 12 inches long, with a hack-saw. The 12 inch piece is only a rough estimate for the length and will be re-cut later.

Using wire cutters, cut the 1/2" screen wire into a X inch by 12 inch piece. The "X" represents the inside length of the cooler, the one we used measured 19-1/2 inches, you'll have to measure the inside length of the one you use. When cutting the length-wise side cut the further end of the wire so that they are left to stick out. These will be used to attached the wire to its self when rolled (pictured above left).

Roll the screen wire piece around a spare piece of 3 inch ABS pipe so that it has a basic tube shape. Lower the wire tube into the cooler and slide the 3" id. double-female connectors through the holes you cut so that an equal amount sticks out either side. Twist the screen wire into as tight a tube as you can and attach the clamps (pictured above center).

Using needle-nose pliers, bend those end wires you purposely left on under and over the lower screen wire to hold it in its tube shape (pictured center). If a few of these break off its not a problem, but if a lot break off you may need to use some light-weight bailing wire to re-enforce the seam of the wire cage. What you should have is a tube-shaped wire cage that is attached at both ends of the chest (pictured right). This is the chamber that the fog will pass through and be cooled in.

To prevent fog from leaking out, seal the two 4 inch double-female connectors into the chest with some clear silicone caulk, inside and outside of the cooler. To help camouflage the unit at night, paint the exterior of the chest with flat black spray paint. Allow the paint and caulk to dry for 24 hours.

Since we cut the mid-section of 3 inch ABS pipe that runs between the two elbow joints extra long, you need to set your fog machine on top of the Fog Chiller and cut off any excess until the fog machines exit nozzle is aligned with the Fog Chillers intake nozzle.

Your Fog Chilling unit is now complete and ready to go. When you're ready to use it all you have to do is fill it up to the top with ordinary ice cubes (ours took 35 pounds) and close the lid tightly. Standard sized ice cubes work great.

You should try to avoid very small ice cubes as they might slip through the screen wire into the cooling chamber and impede the flow of the fog. Using dry ice will improve performance, but dry ice costs a lot more.

During use, align the fog machines exit nozzle to be centered with and about an inch away from the Fog Chiller intake nozzle. This allows outside cool air to be drawn in during operation. The trick to getting the best low lying fog is to use short bursts from your fog machine, separated by a few seconds to allow cold air to refill the cooling chamber.

You can also attach a section of five inch diameter flexible tubing to the exit pipe on the Fog Chiller to direct the fog where you want it. In general, you don't want to attach more than six or eight feet of tubing, as the fog won't have enough power to travel through its entire length.

Special thanks to all the pioneers of fog cooling, particularly Death Lord and Scott N.